Original DIY Cement Pots Made From Old Clothes

An old towel with a ripped edge, a worn T-shirt that’s past saving, a leftover pair of jeans. Toss them? Or turn them into diy pots for the garden that look like carved stone, with soft folds frozen in place like a curtain turned to rock.

This project is budget-friendly, beginner-friendly, and perfect for using up fabric scraps. You’ll learn the classic draped cement-fabric “ghost” pot, plus a quick option for lighter hypertufa-style mixes. Cement is caustic and the dust is harmful, but the steps stay simple with gloves, a mask, and basic care. If you like other fabric reuse ideas, start with upcycling old clothes into home décor.

Key Takeaways

Old cotton towels, denim, canvas, and burlap work best for cement-draped planters because they hold sharp folds and keep their shape.
Mix Portland cement and water into a thick, yogurt-like slurry, it should cling to fabric and not run, a runny mix weakens the pot and flattens the folds.
Drape the cement-soaked cloth over a plastic-covered upside-down mold, pinch folds, and thicken the rim by folding the edge or adding a cement-soaked strip.
Add drainage at the lowest point by poking a hole while wet or drilling after curing, then cure 1 to 2 weeks in shade and soak 2 to 4 days to reduce alkalinity before planting.
For longer life, avoid fast drying, patch chips with cement paste, keep the pot on feet for drainage, and bring very thin pots indoors during hard freeze-thaw cycles.

What you’ll need (and what works best)

Keep it simple, then swap what you already have.

Portland cement (best for fabric dipping), water
Mixing bucket, stirring stick, old trowel or scoop
Gloves, dust mask, eye protection
Plastic sheet or trash bag (so the pot won’t bond to the mold)
Mold: upside-down bucket, bowl, old nursery pot, or stacked containers
Optional: sandpaper, drill, exterior paint for a wash finish

Fabric choices: cotton towels, denim, canvas, and burlap hold shape well. Thin stretchy knits can sag and blur the folds. Plan drainage now, either by poking a hole while wet or drilling later. Want lighter pots? Read a straightforward hypertufa overview HERE .

Draped cement pots made from old clothes (the classic “ghost pot”)

Cover your mold with a plastic bag, tape it tight so it stays smooth.
Mix cement and water to a thick, yogurt-like slurry. It should cling to fabric, not run like soup.
Dunk the cloth fully, work the cement into the fibers, then gently squeeze off excess.
Drape the soaked fabric over the upside-down mold. Pull and pinch folds until it looks the way you want.
Strengthen the rim by folding the edge over once, or wrapping a cement-soaked strip around the top. A thicker rim chips less.
Add drainage: poke through the lowest point with a dowel while wet, or drill a hole after curing.
Cure in the shade. Cover loosely with plastic and leave it alone for 24 to 48 hours, then let it harden longer for strength.

Avoid a runny mix, it weakens the pot and makes the folds melt flat. For extra technique tips, see Tips & Tricks for Concrete Draping.

Original design ideas that look expensive

Tiered double-drape: layer a short cloth over a longer one.
Twisted “rope” rim: twist a cement-soaked strip and press it on.
Stamped texture: press leaves or bark into the wet surface.
Scalloped edge: pinch the rim and clip with clothespins while it firms up.
Two-tone finish: leave raw gray, then brush a thin exterior paint wash.
Tall “skirt” shape: flare the base for grasses and upright herbs.

Curing, leaching, and care so your planter lasts

Curing builds strength and helps prevent cracks. Leaching matters because fresh cement can be too alkaline for many plants.

Unmold after 2 to 3 days, or when it feels hard and cool, not damp.
Keep curing 1 to 2 weeks in shade, mist lightly if it’s drying fast.
Then soak in water for 2 to 4 days, changing water daily.

Hairline cracks are normal and often look great. Bigger cracks usually come from drying too fast or a mix that was too wet. Patch small chips with a dab of cement paste. Set the pot on stones or pot feet so water can escape, and bring very thin pots indoors during hard freeze-thaw cycles. For more cement project inspiration, browse easy cement crafts for home and garden.

Frequently Asked Questions About DIY Cement Pots Made From Old Clothes

What fabric works best for cement pots made from old clothes?

Cotton towels, denim, canvas, and burlap work best because they stay sturdy when soaked and hold crisp folds as they cure. Thin, stretchy knits can sag, which makes the surface look soft and blurred instead of stone-like.

What cement mix consistency should I use for draped cement planters?

Use a thick slurry that looks and feels like yogurt. It should cling to the cloth and coat the fibers without dripping like soup. If the mix is too wet, the pot cures weaker and the folds can slump flat.

How do I keep the cement pot from sticking to the mold?

Cover the mold with a plastic sheet or trash bag, then tape it tight so the surface stays smooth. Drape the soaked fabric over the plastic-covered mold and shape the folds while the cement is still workable.

When should I add drainage holes, and where should they go?

Plan drainage from the start. Poke a hole at the lowest point while the cement is wet (using a dowel or similar tool), or drill a hole after curing. Keeping the drainage point low helps water escape instead of pooling in the bottom.

How long do cement fabric pots need to cure and leach before planting?

Let the pot set on the mold for 24 to 48 hours, then unmold after about 2 to 3 days when it feels hard and cool. Keep curing in the shade for 1 to 2 weeks (mist lightly if it dries too fast). After curing, soak the pot in water for 2 to 4 days, changing the water daily, to help reduce alkalinity before adding plants.

Conclusion

These diy pots for the garden turn old clothes into planters with draped shapes you won’t find on store shelves. Start with one small mold, learn how your fabric behaves, then scale up to bolder pieces. Try different towels, denim, and folds, and let each pot cure fully before planting. What fabric are you saving from the donation bag first?